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About Varied / Hobbyist Magnum ChauMale/Hong Kong Recent Activity
Deviant for 3 Years
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Watchdogs 2 Wrench Jumper print-ready 2K Cosplay by twitte0king Watchdogs 2 Wrench Jumper print-ready 2K Cosplay :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 5 0 Rabbid motion capture suit!! by twitte0king Rabbid motion capture suit!! :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 4 5 Marcus Holloway Lego by twitte0king Marcus Holloway Lego :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 4 1 Wrenchbbid  by twitte0king Wrenchbbid :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 4 2 Decsec Stickers Export by twitte0king Decsec Stickers Export :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 2 0 Missile Stickers dedsec thunderball by twitte0king Missile Stickers dedsec thunderball :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 2 0 Bomb Stickers Thunderball dedsec by twitte0king Bomb Stickers Thunderball dedsec :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 7 0 Img 20160614 225359 (1) by twitte0king Img 20160614 225359 (1) :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 6 0 ASCII Dedsec skull from Watchdogs by twitte0king ASCII Dedsec skull from Watchdogs :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 4 0 Watchdogs 2 Pins Recreation (Free Download) by twitte0king Watchdogs 2 Pins Recreation (Free Download) :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 9 7 Laughing rabbid by twitte0king Laughing rabbid :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 3 0 May the fourth be with you!! by twitte0king May the fourth be with you!! :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 1 0 X-wing papercraft by twitte0king X-wing papercraft :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 2 0 Brand design by twitte0king Brand design :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 0 0 Dna Vector by twitte0king Dna Vector :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 0 0 Jelly fish blurred by twitte0king Jelly fish blurred :icontwitte0king:twitte0king 0 0

Favourites

Mass Effect 3 M-25 Hornet by zanderwitaz Mass Effect 3 M-25 Hornet :iconzanderwitaz:zanderwitaz 160 25 M-25 Cerberus Hornet (Mass Effect) - Completed by eidylon M-25 Cerberus Hornet (Mass Effect) - Completed :iconeidylon:eidylon 5 2 Adrien's room Miraculous Ladybug 3D scene view 2 by MarikoSusie Adrien's room Miraculous Ladybug 3D scene view 2 :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 21 22 Adrien's room Miraculous Ladybug 3D scene view 1 by MarikoSusie Adrien's room Miraculous Ladybug 3D scene view 1 :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 22 7 Nose tutorial by sakimichan Nose tutorial :iconsakimichan:sakimichan 13,832 152 Converse ALL STAR low template by katus-nemcu Converse ALL STAR low template :iconkatus-nemcu:katus-nemcu 18 4 Wrench Watch Dogs 2 papercut collage portrait by MarikoSusie Wrench Watch Dogs 2 papercut collage portrait :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 4 0
Journal
Using HTML on deviantART

Hello!

Hello and welcome to my little html tutorial. I've been working with html codes for a couple of years and I'm going to teach you what I know about using some basic html on deviantART. This won't make you a html expert or something and I'm not an expert myself but it will give just enough knowledge to make your journals, comments, news articles and other neat and lovely looking. :)
deviantART actually has FAQs about html but I still wanted to do this because they look a bit unorganized, in my opinion. Also, why would you want to look for those FAQs when you can just open this news article where you have everything in one place? :dummy:
You may already know some of these, but I hope you'll find at least something helpful in this news article.

Some basic html

:bulletorange:Bold text: <b>insert text here</b>
:pointr: Result: Example text
:pointr:This html code will work in: journal entries, group blogs, comments, artist's commen
:iconScarletteDeath:ScarletteDeath
:iconscarlettedeath:ScarletteDeath 15,295 3,193
Smoke and Clouds Brush by Wen-JR Smoke and Clouds Brush :iconwen-jr:Wen-JR 7,956 685 Assassin's Creed: Syndicate - Hiddenblade by TheNightBeforeLast Assassin's Creed: Syndicate - Hiddenblade :iconthenightbeforelast:TheNightBeforeLast 8 4 Watch Cats Wrench and Kitten by MarikoSusie Watch Cats Wrench and Kitten :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 19 9 Pearl 3D head sculpt by MarikoSusie Pearl 3D head sculpt :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 2 0 Abstergo Industries triangles paper art by MarikoSusie Abstergo Industries triangles paper art :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 3 0 Marcus Watch Dogs 2 papercut collage portrait by MarikoSusie Marcus Watch Dogs 2 papercut collage portrait :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 5 0 Raving Rabbid swirls paper art by MarikoSusie Raving Rabbid swirls paper art :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 4 8 The Dark Ones dagger by MarikoSusie The Dark Ones dagger :iconmarikosusie:MarikoSusie 7 2

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twitte0king's Profile Picture
twitte0king
Magnum Chau
Artist | Hobbyist | Varied
Hong Kong
Freelance 3D and graphic designer! feel free to contact me for commissions!

Fresh grad as BS physics, Have been graphic and editorial designer for a school publication for 3 years.

A crazy science machine, a busy university kid. Settled in the pearl of east, working non-stop from day to day, gaming, music and art are my whole world!!

My Goal: to work in Ubisoft and amaze kids the way that they do
Interests

Activity


I am building a M25 Hornet SMG from mass effect! I really like the concept design! I think the round and the straight lines are well balanced! There isn't a lot of people making this prop! let give it some fandom it deserves!!

I have seen a MDF build and a foam build from the community! Both very respectable and encouraging!! check them out here!! also watching tons of punished prop videos is definitely technically inspiring.

mass_effect_3_m_25_hornet_by_zanderwitaz-d5758aoimg_20170219_173914850_cropped_by_eidylon-db5z2dp

As a 3D modeler, i am very interested in a new approach to realizing the m25 Hornet, 3D printing!! 1 month before Andromeda came out, I modeled this gun in Blender and Maya. Again, getting all the edge, curves and creases right is like playing gymnastic with topology, a heck of fun in hard surface modeling. I printed all parts in PLA with makerbots. the makerbot is not the best in print quality, it translates as "A lot of sanding", still nothing I can't handle.

pwtrli3

Part 1 Research!!


At the time i started the modeling process, there is not much reference. i had to rely on old low-res concept art and in game model from all the way back to ME3. i also found some cool 3d models from the trilogy on deviantart!! thank you guys!!

patrik-karlsson-hornet

After i started sanding, the game came out, so as the artstation art dump, i see the ME:Andromeda in game model!! I am surprise how much i got it right, but a bit bumped about the stuff i got wrong. this lead to some On-the-fly decision making, which we will see more later.

Part 2 Planning and Modeling

I modeled most things in Blender and Maya (very handy modeling software, i would like to write an article on my take on comparing the 2). The original in game 3d model from the trilogy is too low poly, most of the shapes are cheated by texturing. I had to remodel everything, which I enjoy! it took me about two days to knock out these complex shapes. i was kinda in a rush to print these, so i can get my hands on sanding ASAP!

Mmm2 by twitte0king
I treated the Model to be symmetrical, so i only have modeled half of it. when i am modeling, i also noticed certain shapes may not print very well, or it is simply easier to fabricate them with PVA foam/ scrap wood/ EVA foam, for example, the thin "fin" behind the front grip. I knew I will be printing these parts with Makerbot replicator 2 and 5th gen in my maker space. i would also have to slice this model up in multiple pieces that would fit in the Build volume. assembling piece also make it look more realistic than a one piece print!

I also made the most of the Model as hollow shells for printing. This decision greatly decrease the surface area between parts, making gluing 10 times harder. In exchange I have a heavier print, more room inside the print which i can fit electronics and extra weight for more realism! Again i was pressed at time, so i didn't model extra registrations, i would handle those by hand! Below shows my parts assignment. I know almost nothing about real life firearms, so i made up funny names for my parts! haha 
Untitled by twitte0king


Part 3 Printing!!

I am very grateful to the Makerspace Robotics Garage robotics-garage.hkstp.org/. They have assisted me thru the 20+ hours of printing!! in which there were only 1 fail print, and only one part needed reprint! Which saves me the lot of time buying filaments and stuff. The best is they have the cheapest price i have seen in Hong Kong!

Img 20170320 135805 by twitte0king
A bit of Spaghetti when printing tall support, which lead to minor drooping on my print
Img 20170320 154957 by twitte0king
White filament seems to have better surface quality
Img 20170325 135432 by twitte0kingImg 20170325 183156 by twitte0king


Img 20170322 153415 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 155055 by twitte0king
(Right) You see what i meant by hollow shells.

Still they are at their beginning stage of their service, and i wouldn't say they nailed the Makerbot settings yet! at 0.2 mm layer height and normal quality, there are many layer shifts. Most of them are not big enough to make spaghetti, but for bigger parts (6+ hour print), the surface quality is just rough. Also I think their Makerbot also retract filament too soon after printing each layer, leaving holes on my parts corresponding to the end point of the slicing tool path (only those printed in blue PLA)! Maybe Robotics Garage need to tinker with quantifying extruding and retracting behavior based on the viscosity of the the filaments. All of which easier done in a opensource platform like Ultimaker or Prusa!!
F12469328 by twitte0king
I swear my Model is perfectly smooth!! The surface is quite rough

Removing support & raft was made easy, since the print temperature is not too hot! thumbs up to Robotics Garage! i also made educated choices on print orientation, optimizing the aesthetic result while keeping the support removable! Surface facing up in the printer will look better, while the bottom parts are screwed up but the support and raft + susceptible to drooping! 

Part 4 Sanding & Polishing!!

Again a shout out for Robotics Garage, for that they introduced me to the black magic of VISE. Sanding with a vise is just so much easier!! I used to hold the piece in one hand and my file/sanding paper on the other, it is so tiring having to fight your own sanding action!!

Just clamp your piece to the bench in these jaws, and you have both hands to hold you needle files for precision work! I am so inspired i bought my own mini vise right away! Less than 9 USD for a 10 cm desk vise.


Img 20170320 162122 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 170610 by twitte0king
You can add foam padding on the vise to avoid damaging your part!
F12520704 by twitte0king
Small vise is still better than no vise!


Because of the rough surface quality, I need to rough them up with a 60-grit sand paper to level out the layer shift for some parts. Then I hit all parts with my needle files that are 180-200 grit equivalent. They look kinda like the pic below. the goal is to get rid of the step-staircase-printlines-look from the 3d printed parts!

P-904-fine-point-diamond-needle-file-set-2.jpg by twitte0king
For those of you who are new to Sanding, my tip is to look at the different taper style. they are uniquely tasked for specific surface curvature! Square tapers are for big flat surfaces like the side of my gun, while round taper suits filing big curvy surfaces like the front grip. I use triangular taper for getting nice bevel and sharp corners between 2 faces! Experiment and find your style!!
F12413648 by twitte0kingF12458176 by twitte0king
Img 20170320 111648 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 133001 by twitte0king
Img 20170320 111633 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 132949 by twitte0king
the same parts straight out of printer and roughly sanded to 180-grit smoothness, most printlines are removed

To further polish your print, you can consider using primer! Primers are common in auto-painting and model making process. Primer are particulates that can patch up surface imperfection, they can come in liquid or spray can, either way, they only functions thru the following applications:


1) We need to apply primer uniformly on an uneven surface.
2) Lightly sand the surface to smooth, removing primer particle that are stuck on the higher ground of the uneven surface. While the primer particles that are deep in the valley of the uneven surface remain there, reducing the bumpiness.
3) Repeat step 1,2 over and over again until the the layers of primer fill up all valleys. The bumpiness are removed, resulting in a smoother surface.
Webp.net-gifmaker by twitte0king
Cross-sectional diagram: imagine the blue shape is the bumpy 3d print surface, and each shade of reddish shape are new layers of primer.

F13028096 by twitte0king
Priming reveal marble-like pattern, as the gray primer stay in the valley of the Printed part. while the blue on the higher ground are expose after sanding.

Part 5 Assembly!!


Assembly was tempting!! of course I did that a bit earlier and many times!! You should really test-fit all your parts as frequent as you could! This is the only way you can make sure your parts are always compatible! It aids you in sanding your part to a snug fit, save work & money by not priming hidden areas.

Img 20170322 183706 by twitte0kingImg 20170325 192228 by twitte0king


Untitled by twitte0kingImg 20170320 172557 by twitte0king
A big part assembling my gun is Fabricating new parts. Again i woods wood, EVA foam and PVA foam to fabricate certain parts of the gun, the small fin near the front grip, retangular deco on the rail of the stock, the small square between the stock and the butt, the trigger and the sliding bolt also all the inner pegs that is holding it together i knew they wouldn't print well in my case for a number of reasons:
  1. Too small of a detail to be resolve by the makerbot
  2. leaving the detail on other parts would increase risk of fail print. 
  3. Too hard to sand due to limited work room
  4. I discovered new details as new reference are coming it.

Untitled by twitte0king

Part 7 Painting!!

hahaah

I am building a M25 Hornet SMG from mass effect! I really like the concept design! I think the round and the straight lines are well balanced! There isn't a lot of people making this prop! let give it some fandom it deserves!!

I have seen a MDF build and a foam build from the community! Both very respectable and encouraging!! check them out here!! also watching tons of punished prop videos is definitely technically inspiring.

mass_effect_3_m_25_hornet_by_zanderwitaz-d5758aoimg_20170219_173914850_cropped_by_eidylon-db5z2dp

As a 3D modeler, i am very interested in a new approach to realizing the m25 Hornet, 3D printing!! 1 month before Andromeda came out, I modeled this gun in Blender and Maya.  Again, getting all the edge, curves and creases right is like playing gymnastic with topology, a heck of fun in hard surface modeling. I printed all parts in PLA with makerbots. the makerbot is not the best in print quality, it translates as "A lot of sanding", still nothing I can't handle.

pwtrli3

Part 1 Research!!


At the time i started the modeling process, there is not much reference. i had to rely on old low-res concept art and in game model from all the way back to ME3. i also found some cool 3d models from the trilogy on deviantart!! thank you guys!!

patrik-karlsson-hornet

After i started sanding, the game came out, so as the artstation art dump, i see the ME:Andromeda in game model!! I am surprise how much i got it right, but a bit bumped about the stuff i got wrong. this lead to some On-the-fly decision making, which we will see more later.

Part 2 Planning and Modeling

I modeled most things in Blender and Maya (very handy modeling software, i would like to write an article on my take on comparing the 2). The original in game 3d model from the trilogy is too low poly, most of the shapes are cheated by texturing. I had to remodel everything, which I enjoy! it took me about two days to knock out these complex shapes. i was kinda in a rush to print these, so i can get my hands on sanding ASAP!

Mmm2 by twitte0king
I treated the Model to be symmetrical, so i only have modeled half of it. when i am modeling, i also noticed certain shapes may not print very well, or it is simply easier to fabricate them with PVA foam/ scrap wood/ EVA foam, for example, the thin "fin" behind the front grip. I knew I will be printing these parts with Makerbot replicator 2 and 5th gen in my maker space. i would also have to slice this model up in multiple pieces that would fit in the Build volume. assembling piece also make it look more realistic than a one piece print!

I also made the Model as hollow shells for printing. This decision greatly decrease the surface area between parts, making gluing 10 times harder. In exchange I have a heavier print, more room inside the print which i can fit electronics and extra weight for more realism! Again i was pressed at time, so i didn't model extra registrations, i would handle those by hand! Below shows my parts assignment. I know almost nothing about real life firearms, so i made up funny names for my parts! haha 
Untitled by twitte0king


Part 3 Printing!!

I am very grateful to the Makerspace Robotics Garage robotics-garage.hkstp.org/. They have assisted me thru the 20+ hours of printing!! in which there were only 1 fail print, and only one part needed reprint! Which saves me the lot of time buying filaments and stuff. The best is they have the cheapest price i have seen in Hong Kong!

Img 20170320 135805 by twitte0king
A bit of Spaghetti when printing tall support, which lead to minor drooping on my print
Img 20170320 154957 by twitte0king
White filament seems to have better surface quality
Img 20170325 135432 by twitte0kingImg 20170322 153415 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 155055 by twitte0king
(Right) You see what i meant by hollow shells.




Still they are at their beginning stage of their service, and i wouldn't say they nailed the Makerbot settings yet! at 0.2 mm layer height and normal quality, there are many layer shifts. Most of them are not big enough to make spaghetti, but for bigger parts (6+ hour print), the surface quality is just rough. Also I think their Makerbot also retract filament too soon after printing each layer, leaving holes on my parts corresponding to the end point of the slicing tool path (only those printed in blue PLA)! Maybe Robotics Garage need to tinker with quantifying extruding and retracting behavior based on the viscosity of the the filaments. All of which easier done in a opensource platform like Ultimaker or Prusa!!

Part 4 Sanding!!

hahaah

Part 5 Assembly!!

hahaah

Part 6 Polishing!!

hahaah

Part 7 Painting!!

hahaah

Watchdogs 2 Wrench Jumper print-ready 2K Cosplay
I have recreated this print design in photoshop  since there aren't print ready version out there.
the font i used is call cheapsign i found some time ago ion line, i stretch it so it lines up with the original design!!
this is 2k resolution, should be decent for most purpose
Loading...
Rabbid motion capture suit!!
do you know how rabbid games were made?
They motion capture real rabbids!!

here is my latest rendition of rabbids!! i have been thinking about this idea for 2 years now, finally finished it!! as a creation for the 10th anniversary of the rabbids!!
Loading...
Banner Wrench 1 by twitte0king
Previous post        Back to table of content  Next post


Hello readers!! Wrench is wearing converse Chuck's! No doubt about it! Black canvas with white soles, and a grey deco rim.
The link theme carries on with the 4 3 3 2 2 1 square studs! Getting the right shoes off the shelf often means full retail price.

But I am here to fix that! Go try your nearby discount store like "Ross dress for less". Famous brand like converse is constantly shelved. I got mine there, with a less popular purple color for USD $ 19.99. You would find brand new Chuck's at around USD $20. Problem is they are often in the yellow of spilled mustard on the stadium floor after a ball game, or the green that reminds you of the cousin's sneeze when you are both 3 building sand castles. Thing is converse keep making shoes of odd colors that no one buys. Good news! We can dye them to be whatever color we want!

To be continue....

Previous post        Back to table of content    Next post
WRENCHIT_1.1.6_Footwear
-1st edition 2016/10/02
By twitte_king 2016 @ M. G. Your friendly 3d modeler

I am building a M25 Hornet SMG from mass effect! I really like the concept design! I think the round and the straight lines are well balanced! There isn't a lot of people making this prop! let give it some fandom it deserves!!

I have seen a MDF build and a foam build from the community! Both very respectable and encouraging!! check them out here!! also watching tons of punished prop videos is definitely technically inspiring.

mass_effect_3_m_25_hornet_by_zanderwitaz-d5758aoimg_20170219_173914850_cropped_by_eidylon-db5z2dp

As a 3D modeler, i am very interested in a new approach to realizing the m25 Hornet, 3D printing!! 1 month before Andromeda came out, I modeled this gun in Blender and Maya. Again, getting all the edge, curves and creases right is like playing gymnastic with topology, a heck of fun in hard surface modeling. I printed all parts in PLA with makerbots. the makerbot is not the best in print quality, it translates as "A lot of sanding", still nothing I can't handle.

pwtrli3

Part 1 Research!!


At the time i started the modeling process, there is not much reference. i had to rely on old low-res concept art and in game model from all the way back to ME3. i also found some cool 3d models from the trilogy on deviantart!! thank you guys!!

patrik-karlsson-hornet

After i started sanding, the game came out, so as the artstation art dump, i see the ME:Andromeda in game model!! I am surprise how much i got it right, but a bit bumped about the stuff i got wrong. this lead to some On-the-fly decision making, which we will see more later.

Part 2 Planning and Modeling

I modeled most things in Blender and Maya (very handy modeling software, i would like to write an article on my take on comparing the 2). The original in game 3d model from the trilogy is too low poly, most of the shapes are cheated by texturing. I had to remodel everything, which I enjoy! it took me about two days to knock out these complex shapes. i was kinda in a rush to print these, so i can get my hands on sanding ASAP!

Mmm2 by twitte0king
I treated the Model to be symmetrical, so i only have modeled half of it. when i am modeling, i also noticed certain shapes may not print very well, or it is simply easier to fabricate them with PVA foam/ scrap wood/ EVA foam, for example, the thin "fin" behind the front grip. I knew I will be printing these parts with Makerbot replicator 2 and 5th gen in my maker space. i would also have to slice this model up in multiple pieces that would fit in the Build volume. assembling piece also make it look more realistic than a one piece print!

I also made the most of the Model as hollow shells for printing. This decision greatly decrease the surface area between parts, making gluing 10 times harder. In exchange I have a heavier print, more room inside the print which i can fit electronics and extra weight for more realism! Again i was pressed at time, so i didn't model extra registrations, i would handle those by hand! Below shows my parts assignment. I know almost nothing about real life firearms, so i made up funny names for my parts! haha 
Untitled by twitte0king


Part 3 Printing!!

I am very grateful to the Makerspace Robotics Garage robotics-garage.hkstp.org/. They have assisted me thru the 20+ hours of printing!! in which there were only 1 fail print, and only one part needed reprint! Which saves me the lot of time buying filaments and stuff. The best is they have the cheapest price i have seen in Hong Kong!

Img 20170320 135805 by twitte0king
A bit of Spaghetti when printing tall support, which lead to minor drooping on my print
Img 20170320 154957 by twitte0king
White filament seems to have better surface quality
Img 20170325 135432 by twitte0kingImg 20170325 183156 by twitte0king


Img 20170322 153415 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 155055 by twitte0king
(Right) You see what i meant by hollow shells.

Still they are at their beginning stage of their service, and i wouldn't say they nailed the Makerbot settings yet! at 0.2 mm layer height and normal quality, there are many layer shifts. Most of them are not big enough to make spaghetti, but for bigger parts (6+ hour print), the surface quality is just rough. Also I think their Makerbot also retract filament too soon after printing each layer, leaving holes on my parts corresponding to the end point of the slicing tool path (only those printed in blue PLA)! Maybe Robotics Garage need to tinker with quantifying extruding and retracting behavior based on the viscosity of the the filaments. All of which easier done in a opensource platform like Ultimaker or Prusa!!
F12469328 by twitte0king
I swear my Model is perfectly smooth!! The surface is quite rough

Removing support & raft was made easy, since the print temperature is not too hot! thumbs up to Robotics Garage! i also made educated choices on print orientation, optimizing the aesthetic result while keeping the support removable! Surface facing up in the printer will look better, while the bottom parts are screwed up but the support and raft + susceptible to drooping! 

Part 4 Sanding & Polishing!!

Again a shout out for Robotics Garage, for that they introduced me to the black magic of VISE. Sanding with a vise is just so much easier!! I used to hold the piece in one hand and my file/sanding paper on the other, it is so tiring having to fight your own sanding action!!

Just clamp your piece to the bench in these jaws, and you have both hands to hold you needle files for precision work! I am so inspired i bought my own mini vise right away! Less than 9 USD for a 10 cm desk vise.


Img 20170320 162122 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 170610 by twitte0king
You can add foam padding on the vise to avoid damaging your part!
F12520704 by twitte0king
Small vise is still better than no vise!


Because of the rough surface quality, I need to rough them up with a 60-grit sand paper to level out the layer shift for some parts. Then I hit all parts with my needle files that are 180-200 grit equivalent. They look kinda like the pic below. the goal is to get rid of the step-staircase-printlines-look from the 3d printed parts!

P-904-fine-point-diamond-needle-file-set-2.jpg by twitte0king
For those of you who are new to Sanding, my tip is to look at the different taper style. they are uniquely tasked for specific surface curvature! Square tapers are for big flat surfaces like the side of my gun, while round taper suits filing big curvy surfaces like the front grip. I use triangular taper for getting nice bevel and sharp corners between 2 faces! Experiment and find your style!!
F12413648 by twitte0kingF12458176 by twitte0king
Img 20170320 111648 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 133001 by twitte0king
Img 20170320 111633 by twitte0kingImg 20170320 132949 by twitte0king
the same parts straight out of printer and roughly sanded to 180-grit smoothness, most printlines are removed

To further polish your print, you can consider using primer! Primers are common in auto-painting and model making process. Primer are particulates that can patch up surface imperfection, they can come in liquid or spray can, either way, they only functions thru the following applications:


1) We need to apply primer uniformly on an uneven surface.
2) Lightly sand the surface to smooth, removing primer particle that are stuck on the higher ground of the uneven surface. While the primer particles that are deep in the valley of the uneven surface remain there, reducing the bumpiness.
3) Repeat step 1,2 over and over again until the the layers of primer fill up all valleys. The bumpiness are removed, resulting in a smoother surface.
Webp.net-gifmaker by twitte0king
Cross-sectional diagram: imagine the blue shape is the bumpy 3d print surface, and each shade of reddish shape are new layers of primer.

F13028096 by twitte0king
Priming reveal marble-like pattern, as the gray primer stay in the valley of the Printed part. while the blue on the higher ground are expose after sanding.

Part 5 Assembly!!


Assembly was tempting!! of course I did that a bit earlier and many times!! You should really test-fit all your parts as frequent as you could! This is the only way you can make sure your parts are always compatible! It aids you in sanding your part to a snug fit, save work & money by not priming hidden areas.

Img 20170322 183706 by twitte0kingImg 20170325 192228 by twitte0king


Untitled by twitte0kingImg 20170320 172557 by twitte0king
A big part assembling my gun is Fabricating new parts. Again i woods wood, EVA foam and PVA foam to fabricate certain parts of the gun, the small fin near the front grip, retangular deco on the rail of the stock, the small square between the stock and the butt, the trigger and the sliding bolt also all the inner pegs that is holding it together i knew they wouldn't print well in my case for a number of reasons:
  1. Too small of a detail to be resolve by the makerbot
  2. leaving the detail on other parts would increase risk of fail print. 
  3. Too hard to sand due to limited work room
  4. I discovered new details as new reference are coming it.

Untitled by twitte0king

Part 7 Painting!!

hahaah

Comments


Add a Comment:
 
:iconeidylon:
eidylon Featured By Owner May 3, 2017  Hobbyist General Artist
Reply
:iconmarkproductions:
MarkProductions Featured By Owner Nov 19, 2016  Hobbyist Digital Artist
Have a great birthday! :D
Reply
:iconfgore:
Fgore Featured By Owner Mar 9, 2015  Professional General Artist
Thanks for the :+fav: Magnum :)
Reply
:icontwitte0king:
twitte0king Featured By Owner Mar 14, 2015  Hobbyist General Artist
You are so good at what you do!
Reply
:iconfgore:
Fgore Featured By Owner Mar 16, 2015  Professional General Artist
Thank you for the kind words!!  :D
Reply
:iconratscape:
ratscape Featured By Owner Jan 27, 2015  Professional Digital Artist
Thanks for adding the ratworks to your favourites!
Reply
:iconthesimplylexi:
thesimplyLexi Featured By Owner Sep 22, 2014  Professional Digital Artist
Thanx for the watch and fav! =D
Reply
:iconabdoubouam:
AbdouBouam Featured By Owner Jun 4, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
thanks for the fav
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:iconcreedcosplay:
CreedCosplay Featured By Owner Feb 1, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thank You for the fave!
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:icontrujin:
Trujin Featured By Owner Jan 5, 2014  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Thanks for the watch btw!
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